How to set up a belay device. THREE 170 to 220 pounds.

How to set up a belay device The following description assumes you will be doing a 'top rope' climb. the second climber). This is also known as belaying the second (i. They can be used as a normal belay device too. TWO 140 to 170 pounds. When doing a multi-pitch climb, which is a long climb … The advantage of a guide-mode device over a regular tubular belay device is that it can be secured directly to the anchor in a way that makes the device brake automatically when your seconder falls or rests on the rope. This will vary widely from device to device. 0mm Imlay Canyon Rope or BlueWater CanyonPro: Add 1/3 setting Some belay devices have a guide mode function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. 4. The Redirected Belay Jan 20, 2014 · Solo-toproping techniques vary mainly in their back-up methods. . Perform the Safety Check. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. To set up this kind of device in guide mode, secure it to the anchor using the second attachment point on the back of the device. Ensure that the rope is correctly positioned and properly fed through the device. But nearly every belay device uses the same general principles to function and operate correctly. Nowadays, there are simply better devices out there that are specifically designed for the rigors of climbing! Get yourself an ATC or a Grigri. Double-check that: Jun 28, 2018 · Load your belay device: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to set up your device. Apr 28, 2025 · The climber should make sure the belayer’s device is set up properly: The rope is threaded through everything, and the carabiner is locked. Mar 10, 2025 · Once the climber is tied in, the belayer must set up their belay device. Mar 8, 2013 · ZERO up to 120 pounds. With an ATC, you commonly take a fold in the rope, also known as a “bight,” and feed it through the opening at the top. ONE 120 to 140 pounds. Just because a Figure Eight can be used as a belay for climbing doesn’t mean it should be. For example, the way you set up a belay and manage to lower is different on an ATC than it is on an Auto-locking belay device such as a Grigri. To ensure the safety of the climber and of the belayer, get professional training for belaying. Thread the climbing rope through the belay device according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The setup is different for lead climbing. THREE 170 to 220 pounds. Others climb with two different devices clipped into two separate ropes. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Brake: When your guide hand reaches the belay device, pull the brake strand down into the braking position. If they fall, the device will lock by itself almost To set up the auto-blocking device, she just needs two locking biners and the belay device; at least one of the biners needs to have a smooth and rounded shape with no edges. Unlike toprope belaying, however, the lead belayer is not solely focused on taking in slack in the rope as the climber moves up a route. 2mm Canyonero Rope: Subtract 1/3 setting. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. Single Line, 8. Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. 5. Make a small bite (not a twist or full loop) in the opposite end of the rope from the one that is attached to the climber’s harness. Jul 26, 2024 · Check the device often for damage to ensure it works well. When the lead climber reaches the top, he needs to belay up the climber who was belaying at the bottom. Slide: Without letting go of the rope, slide your brake hand up close to the belay device. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Conduct a thorough safety check before starting the belaying process. e. Though many belay devices are symmetrical, some have a grooved inner surface on one side of each tube: This provides additional friction if needed to belay a heavier climber or to belay with a rope that's thinner or slicker than normal. Many gyms offer courses, where you can learn to top-rope belay and lead-belay under the competent supervision of gym staff in a safe environment. Single Line, 9. Use clear commands with your climber to build trust and teamwork. And you must be backed up—never depend on a single device. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. Knowing how to belay from above is an important skill for a climber. As you’ll see, they come in many shapes and sizes, with slight differences in how they operate. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. Test the system by pulling on both strands of rope coming out of the belay device. Learning about different belay devices makes you a better climber. If you do forget your regular belay device, feel free to use an 8 ring- just know how to set it up correctly. Dec 15, 2021 · In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. A common type of belay device is an ATC, which features two slots for feeding through a bite of rope, and a wire keeper. Feb 22, 2020 · Once the belay device is set up properly, both the climber’s and the belayer’s pre-climb checks are complete and all climbing commands are said, the climber can get on the wall. This brakes the rope. It also keeps you and your climber safe. Mar 16, 2022 · A belay device is a generic term for any gear that performs the belay function. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. That is, locking up the rope and stopping a climber from falling further. Set Up the Belay Device. Set up the belay device by sliding a bight of rope through the tube closest to your dominant hand. Some climbers hang a second rope alongside the first and clip into bights pre-tied in the backup rope in case the primary rope or belay device fails. By picking the right gear and following best practices, climbing becomes safer and more enjoyable. If it pulls the belayer via the harness belay loop, you’re good to go. When the climber has tied in to one end of the rope, the belayer must attach their belay device to the other end of the rope and also to their harness.